This week, Ligaya Mishan, the chief restaurant critic for the New York Times, reviews Babbo in Manhattan, which has seen a resurgence with many familiar dishes receiving modern updates under chef Mark Ladner.
Originally opened by Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich in 1998, Babbo has transitioned to new management with Stephen Starr at the helm. He has appointed Ladner, who previously excelled at Del Posto, to reinvent the beloved menu. Upon first glance, it may appear that the menu remains unchanged; however, the true innovation emerges when the dishes are served.
One standout is the warm lamb tongue salad, which remains delightful but has been enhanced with truffled mushrooms and tomatoes while omitting the previously rich poached duck egg topping. Ladner’s classic goat cheese tortellini maintain their lightness, now accented with yuzu peel instead of orange. However, some plates do not hit the mark; the lamb scottadito, a leftover from Del Posto, features overly large chops.
Desserts lack the excitement one might expect, especially without a dedicated pastry chef, leading to creative ideas that struggle on the plate. Yet, when Ladner embraces his straightforward, nonna-inspired cooking, he produces remarkable results, such as the tender rabbit, which contrasts with its lean build, and a minestrone that’s enriched through continuous nurturing from a mother batch. The linguine vongole features fresh cockles, complemented by textured breadcrumbs that merge beautifully with the rich sauce.
Overall, Ladner is not merely attempting to recreate Babbo’s past glory but instead aims to reconcile with it and chart a new path forward. You can read the full review on the New York Times.