After a delightful two weeks exploring Portugal and Northern Spain with readers, I took some time to recover from jet lag before diving back into the local dining scene.
This week, I tried three distinct eateries: a newcomer on Grand Avenue, a beloved local spot in my neighborhood, and an Asian restaurant I had been eager to experience.
Russell’s
I decided to revisit Russell’s, which recently opened in the space formerly occupied by Tavern on Grand. My first visit had been chaotic, so I was curious to see how they’d settled in. This time, the ambiance was much more relaxed. We started with cocktails—my husband enjoyed an old-fashioned, while I found my espresso martini slightly creamier than I prefer.
For starters, we sampled chicken Swedish meatballs drizzled with a tangy sauce that added an interesting twist to what’s usually a rich dish. My son opted for a burger, and after one bite, I knew I’d need to return for it before our annual burger guide. My husband’s salmon was well-prepared, served on a tasty German potato salad, while my chicken was juicy and flavorful, although I wasn’t a fan of the overly sweet honey carrots it was served with. The side salad was fresh, and I enjoyed the accompanying squash puree.
Russell’s: 656 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-313-5839; russellsstpaul.com
FoodSmith
On a lovely Tuesday evening, my neighbors and I walked over to FoodSmith after finding our first dinner choice, El Cubano, closed. Located on Smith Avenue in West St. Paul, this neighborhood gem boasts excellent food and drinks.
We began our meal with crispy Brussels sprouts glazed with sweet balsamic and topped with almonds and parmesan. I craved a burger again, so I went for the Austrian Hunter Burger, layered with bacon, mushrooms, sautéed onions, and gruyere. It was a massive and juicy sandwich, though I thought the patty could have used a bit more seasoning. The hand-cut fries were a fantastic complement to the burger. My husband enjoyed a Reuben, while our neighbors were satisfied with their steak and goulash, which came with irresistibly crispy spätzle reminiscent of what I tasted in Austria.
FoodSmith: 973 S. Smith Ave., West St. Paul; 651-330-0896; foodsmithpub.com
Soul Lao / Wandering Leaf
Finally, I visited Soul Lao, a brick-and-mortar Lao restaurant that I had long wanted to try. My friend and I stopped by on a weeknight, pairing our meal with some beers from Wandering Leaf Brewing next door.
After ordering through an app, we enjoyed a hazy IPA and a remarkable pickled beer infused with hot chiles—a flavor experience that paired perfectly with our food. We tried Naem Khao, crispy coconut rice with savory bits of fermented pork, and Khao Soi Haeng, a spicy rice noodle dish. The rice’s crispy textures and the well-spiced noodles left a lasting impression, especially complemented by a side of their habañero hot sauce.
Wandering Leaf’s vibrant, plant-filled taproom made for a pleasant atmosphere, with friendly dogs adding to the charm.
Soul Lao: 2465 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-363-3469; soullao.com
This week offered a fantastic blend of new experiences and old favorites, leaving me excited for more local culinary adventures ahead.