The interior of the Old Spot, Dublin 4
The sad news of recent restaurant closures has, we must hope, called attention to the difficulties in running a restaurant even in a period of prosperity.
Costs have continued to spiral, margins are tighter than ever before, while wage and running costs have also increased.
Restaurants are a vital part of any living vibrant economy, and our government must surely know that visitors will remember the food they ate as much as the scenery.
Lowering the VAT rate to 9% seems essential to prevent further business shutdowns.
Encouragingly, numerous eateries continue to attract patrons even though their profit margins are reduced.
It was a surprise to learn that The Old Spot gastropub marks its 10th anniversary this year—it almost feels as though it’s been around for 40 years.
In honor of this milestone, they are releasing a new cookbook later in the month. Authored by Aoife Carrigy and published by 9 Bean Rows, this occasion appeared to be the perfect moment for a review visit.
Open daily, The Old Spot is renowned for its Sunday lunch, drawing myself, the Engineer, and the Physicist precisely at 1pm.
A vigorous, spicy Bloody Mary began our meal, invigorating our appetites, while the Physicist enjoyed a pint of Hope IPA on draught, chosen from an array of independent beers—a rare find in many bars and restaurants nowadays.
With the intent to manage our appetite, we opted to share just two starters. The Mussels pil pil, priced at €16, married succulent mussels with a mildly spicy creamy sauce, perfect for dipping the accompanying crusty bread—both savory and soothing.
The Ham hock croquette, costing €15, was encased in a crisp, golden crust, filled with dense, salty-sweet pulled bacon. The addition of celeriac rémoulade brought a balancing touch, but the standout was the homemade brown sauce. Its savory, fruity, sweet, and tangy notes perfectly complemented the rich bacon flavors, suggesting it deserves its own spotlight on the market.
In service to you, dear reader, we ordered three different mains, even though we all wanted the roast beef (€28). The Physicist’s beer-battered fish (€23) and beef-dripping chips was just as you could want, however, fresh fish in a crisp batter, crunchy house-made chips, and a good pea purée and tartare sauce on the side.
Proper chips like this remain a rarity, with 90% of restaurants using frozen or pre-cut. A side of fried pickled onion rings were also perfection.
The Engineer won out on the beef, and several pink and tender slices arrived with an umami rich gravy, herbal stuffing, properly rich cauliflower cheese and crisply cooked carrots and green beans.
I had the same accompaniments with my roast chicken (€26), which was also tasty and tender — a small improvement I would seek might be a crispier skin.
My companion, the Engineer, and I have long engaged in friendly competition over our Sunday roast dinners, each of us honing our craft over the years. We’ve come to believe that our roasted potatoes, cut into smaller pieces, turn out crispier. And while I personally prefer a denser Yorkshire pudding, similar to those served at The Old Spot, I realize I may be overly critical, reminiscent of an Italian yearning for their Nonna’s cooking.
The beverage selection at The Old Spot is impressively extensive, starting from around €39. The list includes a variety of distinguished wines, such as Ch. Lynch Bages from years like 2010, 2006, 2005, and 1988.
Both glass and carafe options are offered. We opted for a bottle of ‘Ô Font’ (€45), crafted in the southern Rhône by a trio of Irish vintners. This juicy, fruit-driven wine paired exceptionally well with both our starters and main courses.
The desserts, each priced at €10, featured a standout chocolate and pistachio tart served with roasted banana ice cream. The dish was rich, sticky, and enhanced by a sprinkling of crumbled Yellowman honeycomb, adding a delightful crunch.
Basque cheesecake was tasty, although a bit drier than ideal, yet we managed to finish it all.
The Old Spot’s renowned restaurant manager, Denise McBrien, ensures everything runs smoothly, creating a cheerful atmosphere filled with lively chatter and joyful family moments.
The culinary expertise is evident, and I am eager to delve into the cookbook to uncover some of chef Mark Ahessy’s culinary secrets, particularly the fried pickled onions and the exquisite brown sauce.
Here’s to a decade more of success.
THE VERDICT:
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