A new chapter in Texas is being written in Fort Worth, characterized by its modern hotels and exceptional museums.
Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure
Fort Worth goes by many names: Cowtown, the Wall Street of the West, the Unexpected City, and Where the West Begins. These titles reflect not an identity crisis, but rather the rich array of experiences the city offers, as I discovered during my recent visit. Fort Worth beautifully blends its Old West charm and cowboy heritage with a vibrant cultural scene, standing out distinctly from Dallas, its bigger counterpart. The most remarkable part? A weekend was all it took to witness this transformation firsthand.
Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure
I found my bearings at the 35-block Sundance Square in the heart of the city, highlighted by a plaza featuring a fountain and a massive disco-mirrored cowboy hat. My next stop was the Water Gardens, famous for its reflecting pools that appeared in a Kendrick Lamar music video. As I strolled, I took time to read a collection of historical plaques recounting the stories of notable figures from Fort Worth’s history, including Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
For lunch, I settled down at Don Artemio, a James Beard Award semifinalist, where I enjoyed enchiladas filled with queso fresco and topped with a delicious tamarind mole.
After my meal, I refreshed myself in my room at the Crescent Hotel, a chic 200-room establishment that just opened last November. The hotel features Canyon Ranch’s first Wellness Club, which includes a 9,000-square-foot fitness center and spa offering a variety of treatments, including facials infused with diamond peptides.
Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure
Located near a quartet of cultural institutions, The Crescent offers access to an impressive array of art galleries that could rival any city. The Kimbell Art Museum, designed by Louis Kahn, houses one of Michelangelo’s earliest known paintings, which is uniquely displayed in an American museum. Visitors can also admire remarkable works by artists like Monet, Mondrian, and Rembrandt, alongside an exhibition hall curated by Renzo Piano.
Just a short distance away is the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, an architectural masterpiece crafted by Tadao Ando. Also nearby is the Amon Carter Museum of American Art, named after the influential founder and publisher of the Fort Worth Star-Telegram, who played a significant role in the city’s development during the first half of the 20th century. The Amon Carter Museum features an outstanding photography collection focused on the American West, showcasing works by renowned photographers including Richard Avedon, Dorothea Lange, and Alfred Stieglitz.
Related: Fort Worth Is More Than Just Cowboys
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But I was particularly captivated by the National Cowgirl Museum & Hall of Fame, which showcased a collection of embroidered traditional dresses, sombreros, and shawls worn by Mexican cowgirls during Escaramuza Charra competitions — a cherished Mexican rodeo sport where teams of women ride sidesaddle and execute choreographed equestrian maneuvers to music.
In the morning, I ventured into the Southside and Near Southside neighborhoods to explore the creative scene in Fort Worth. My first destination was PS1200, a multifunctional space crafted by Arkansas architect Marlon Blackwell. This assembly of buildings, featuring curved, ribbed-metal roofs, accommodates venues from the Gifted Group, a collective of women with Korean and Mexican backgrounds. I encountered two of the cofounders, sisters Jazmin and Jeanette Ramirez, at Gifted, a boutique offering linen apparel, ceramic jewelry, and porcelain bowls. The collective also runs Café Momento, an espresso bar that also serves as a bookstore and art gallery. “Our travels fuel our inspiration,” Jazmin shared when I inquired about her vision for the establishment.
I strolled along Magnolia Avenue for brunch at Paris Coffee Shop, a contemporary take on Fort Worth’s oldest diner. They offer hearty meals like smoked-brisket breakfast tacos and fluffy buttermilk pancakes. Following this, I explored South Main, a neighborhood that boasts numerous female-owned shops, including Bodega South Main, an upscale grocery and deli, alongside the fair-trade boutique Winton & Waits. At Apothenne, a scent shop, I replenished my supply of fragrant candles and musky sandalwood perfumes. This neighborhood is also perfect for enjoying a drink, whether at the dive bar Nickel City, the biodynamic wine venue Holly, or the nostalgic Low Doubt Bar, connected to the live music spot Tulips FTW.
Exploring Fort Worth is not complete without stepping into the historic Stockyards, where the impressive longhorn steers are rounded up twice a day and rodeos take place at the Cowtown Coliseum every Friday and Saturday evening. To fit in with the atmosphere, I decided to find the perfect outfit and visited City Boots for a pair of exquisite handcrafted cowgirl boots. I also dropped by the Best Hat Store, where the talented hat shaper Danny Adams tailored a beaver-felt cowboy hat just for me. “A cowboy hat is not an accessory,” he stated confidently. “Everything else is.”
Within the bustling Stockyards lies Mule Alley, a lively hub for shopping and nightlife. I enjoyed a refreshing cocktail made with jalapeño, pineapple, and tequila at Sidesaddle Saloon, before joining a line-dancing class at Billy Bob’s Texas, the largest honky-tonk in the world. Our instructor playfully reminded us, “We’re in Fort Worth, not Dallas,” which sparked a cheering response from our group. As I tried to master various dance steps like the jazz box with a turn, rolling grapevine, rock step, and mambo step, I was surrounded by the sound of boots tapping against the floor and a sea of cowboy hats spinning around me.
The following day, I checked into Bowie House, Auberge Resorts Collection, a beautiful hotel operated by Jo Ellard, a businesswoman, rancher, and horse breeder from Dallas. My suite was adorned with equestrian-themed details such as hat racks, boot benches, and striking black-and-white photographs depicting Texas ranch life by Constance Jaeggi. The property boasts over 400 pieces of art from Ellard’s private collection, including a stunning photograph by Kenyan artist Thandiwe Muriu displayed above the lounge’s fireplace. While the vintage saloon and the chic chophouse Bricks & Horses offered vibrant atmospheres to experience, I also cherished serene moments during my stay, relaxing at the rooftop pool and indulging in a CBD-infused massage at the hotel’s Ash Spa.
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That afternoon, I enjoyed some fresh air at the Trailhead at Clearfork, a park situated along the Trinity River that also features a variety of shops and restaurants. At Press Café, I savored a delicious waffle adorned with a sunny-side-up egg, fontina, shaved ham, crispy bacon, and a drizzle of maple syrup. The park’s Keith House Skyspace, a recent creation by James Turrell, was available for viewing by reservation only during my visit, but is slated for full public access later this year. I managed to get a sneak peek at the installation, which draws inspiration from the Quaker meeting houses of the artist’s childhood. Like Turrell’s other masterpieces, this one plays intricately with light and shadow: beams of sunlight filter through an aperture in the ceiling and are beautifully synchronized with changing illumination in the space. Throughout the day, as the light transforms, both the ceiling and the sky appear to shift in color.
After the tour, I decided to rent a bike to pedal along the picturesque trails by the river back to Bowie House. I passed several groups of Fort Worth locals walking their dogs, exercising, and enjoying picnics. Everyone seemed to relish their life in Cowtown — and for a brief moment, I felt the same way too.
A version of this story first appeared in the October 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “Hold on to Your Hat.”