A restaurant can be a lot of different things at once.
Adelina is a new downtown destination under the capacious umbrella of celebrity chef Fabio Viviani. It’s sleek and trendy — its words — and often attracts the ensuing fashionable, want-to-be-seen clientele.
Adelina can function like a classic steakhouse if diners choose — the option to simply order a filet mignon, martini, and Caesar salad stares you right in the face. It’s a place to celebrate a raucous birthday or grab a showy craft cocktail on a date. And although it positions itself as Italian-Mediterranean fusion, Adelina is at its best when it celebrates humble Italian fare.
That’s why you should order like a nonna.
When I departed from Adelina, memories of my late grandmother surfaced — the one of Greek descent who assimilated into an Italian household, mastering the culinary crafts of her mother-in-law. During my childhood, Sundays were marked by family gatherings on the cloth-draped picnic table at her porch, indulging in meatballs, sausage and peppers, pasta, and tossed salad from a large wooden bowl amidst the frenzied humming of hummingbirds by the plastic feeders. The air was filled with Italian polka tunes emanating from an ancient radio perched on the windowsill.
While the setting might not mirror exactly (though I adore the notion of my grandmother requesting a beverage crowned with a smoky skull), I am certain of the dishes we would choose at Adelina, echoing those cherished Sunday meals.
Adelina’s menu, though succinct, offers ample to contemplate, but when ordering, one should channel the essence of those family Sundays. Choose with ardor, with tender consideration.
Opt for the meatball.
Who doesn’t relish the thought of indulging in a massive, softball-sized meatball crafted from Michigan Wagyu beef?
The meatball served at Adelina is not only substantial in size but also exquisitely tender. Effortlessly cutting through it with a fork, one can slice off a soft, cakelike piece that bursts with savory flavors and a delicate texture, courtesy of ricotta cheese and a minimal use of breadcrumbs. It’s imperative to mention that Adelina’s red sauce is outstanding—a vibrant and tangy mixture that truly shines, although one might desire it more frequently across the menu. Indeed, crafting a superb marinara involves not just high-quality ingredients but also a mastery of culinary techniques, something the chefs at Adelina have perfected with their sauce formulations.
Adelina shines again with its modern take on the classic sausage and peppers. Handcrafted Italian sausage bursts forth from its casing, harmoniously paired with blistered tomatoes, charred peppers, petite potato accents, red onions, a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, and a Gorgonzola cheese sauce. The balsamic reduction introduces a vital sharpness while the cheese adds a layer of deep, complex flavors. This dish is a more sophisticated rendition than the traditional Sunday supper of my childhood but retains an essence that evokes a warm nostalgia. I wish my grandmother could see how much sausage and peppers have evolved.
However, there are some flavors that she might not favor.
I’ve enjoyed numerous servings of linguine and clams over the years, but the rendition served at Adelina’s is particularly audacious. Ordinarily, linguine alle vongole is laced with dried red pepper flakes, but Adelina’s variation using tagliolini pasta not only incorporates this, but also a healthy dose of freshly ground black pepper. It prompted me to ponder whether this was an accidental heavy sprinkle that evening or if the dish was designed to deliver such a potent thermal sensation.
The tagliolini, a departure from traditional thicker pastas such as linguine or tagliatelle, adeptly soaks up the buttery, peppery sauce. My sole complaint (which may be somewhat subjective) involves the blistered tomatoes. Although they added a distinct flavor, I felt they detracted from the dish’s spicy, rich essence. Fortunately, these have been subsequently omitted from the dish at Adelina’s.
The casarecce served with Wagyu ragù is pleasurable but is possibly too decadent and creamy. On the other hand, the ravioli, filled with a lush pea purée and draped in guanciale fat and butter, securely holds its place on the pasta list. Unfortunately, the gnocchetti mixed with veal and mushrooms initially fell short. This, however, has been addressed by updating the recipe to include homemade sausage with a wild mushroom and porcini ragù.
This underscores a ubiquitous challenge in critiquing newly opened restaurants—they are invariably evolving.
The culinary team at Adelina continues their explorations while quickly gaining popularity.
Serving over 350 diners on a busy Saturday, it’s evident that Adelina is just beginning to hit its stride. The restaurant has potential to evolve further, and having met the team, it seems they’re on the cusp of perfecting their formula.
The kitchen is led by Chefs Gabriel Botezan and Marco Dalla Fontana, with the pastry section managed by Gabriela Botezan. Adelina acts as a culinary reunion for the trio; Gabriel Botezan and Dalla Fontana previously collaborated at the former Bacco Ristorante, forging a strong bond. Gabriela, married to Gabriel, joined the Bacco team somewhat reluctantly on her husband’s insistence.
Although she may not appear prominently on Adelina’s online platform, Gabriela’s contributions demand acclaim. Her culinary creations are marked by a nuanced finesse and individual flair. She presents a compelling tiramisu, where espresso-soaked ladyfinger biscuits are alternated with layers of mascarpone mousse and coffee ganache, uniquely omitting liquor and egg whites from her version. This yields an unexpectedly dense and smooth dessert that leaves patrons delightfully clinging to their spoons.
Six ricotta zeppole arrive flawlessly tender and airy, coated lightly with granulated sugar that subtly enhances their natural orange zest. They are served with a sharp chocolate dip and a lively raspberry sauce that perfectly accentuates these Italian delicacies.
Gabriela has a preference for the understated sweetness found in European desserts. Her heritage is rooted in Transylvania, and she also lived in Italy for four years as a waitress, developing a deep appreciation for the diverse range of Italian sweets. Adelina presents an opportunity for her to replicate not just the desserts she cherished during her time in Venice, but also those from Romania, where the emphasis is often on nuanced flavors rather than overwhelming sweetness.
The pastry expert at Adelina is renowned for the superb focaccia as well. While it doesn’t quite mimic the thinness of the traditional Genovese focaccia, it shares the iconic crispy crust found in Ligurian cafés. Paired with whipped ricotta, crispy garlic, rosemary, and green olives, the bread offers a rich tapestry of tastes. Not to forget, Adelina offers fresh espresso beverages, making it feasible to savor a genuine Genovese breakfast of focaccia dipped in cappuccino in the evening.
Though Adelina doesn’t open for morning service, it leaves plenty for the imagination.
It’s clear that Adelina has the potential to offer the finest chicken Parmesan in town, if it decided to. I also long for a sandwich at Gabriela’s, laden with her focaccia, mortadella, and burrata cheese. However, Dalla Fontana mentions that offering lunch is currently out of the question as the restaurant is too busy handling its dinner service.
As the seasons change, so will parts of the menu, presenting the chefs with new challenges to test their culinary creativity. The veal limone has made way for a veal Milanese, which is a breaded cutlet served simply with lemon, while sausage remains on the menu but has taken a summer twist with the addition of pan-seared banana peppers. Adelina aims to embrace each season’s offerings to blend consistency with innovation.
Over time, this might help Adelina establish a more defined identity, although it currently appears to have multiple facets. Having spent a significant time reflecting, to me, the restaurant often exudes a classic Italian vibe.
On occasion, it may present itself as a high-end steakhouse or cocktail bar. Yet, I’ve concluded that Adelina truly thrives as a contemporary version of a classic red-sauce restaurant, albeit slightly incognito.
The array of dishes like meatballs, sausage and peppers, freshly baked bread, ravioli, and tiramisu could easily fit into an outdoor setting in a park without seeming out of place. Instead, these offerings are found on the ground floor of the One Campus Martius building, a towering 16-story, 1.3 million-square-foot complex in the heart of downtown. Amidst the imposing steel and concrete, there exists a palpable warmth.
My return to Adelina won’t be for the spectacle of tableside special effects or to sample delicacies like hamachi crudo crafted into festive shapes. Rather, envision me solo at the bar, savoring a sizable meatball alongside a glass of robust red wine, or enjoying a classic gin martini at 5 p.m. on a Wednesday (a tip: the bartenders at Adelina excel in their craft).
Perhaps I’ll wander in for some late-night tiramisu or seek solace in the delightful focaccia on a dreary day. Adelina is equipped to accommodate a spectrum of emotional states.
Adelina is located at 1040 Woodward Ave., Detroit. Call 313-246-8811 or visit adelinadetroit.com for more information.
This story originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of Hour Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of Hour Detroit at a local retail outlet. Our digital edition will be available on Sept. 6.