Visiting Mister S on a recent Tuesday, the restaurant was fully booked.
From the depths of human history, where nearly human ancestors mastered the art of cooking over fire about 780,000 years ago, our civilization has evolved. The Primitive Homo Erectus species might consider the open fire not just a means for cooking but a cornerstone for developing language and ultimately, civilization — at least, that’s a theory.
Cooking with fire is undeniably the most basic yet profound culinary method. Were it not for climates less forgiving than those of Africa, Southern USA, Australia, or Brazil, we would likely engage in this tradition more often. Fortunately, establishments like Mister S and Elbow Lane in Cork carry on this ancient cooking practice.
Mister S, now about five years since its opening, features a kitchen that looks on to a sprawling, informal dining area from an elevated platform. The kitchen has come into its own, especially under the leadership of a skilled Brazilian chef who expertly manages the bespoke open fire stove. The culinary offerings have never been better.
During a bustling Tuesday visit, the restaurant was at full capacity, filled with a lively crowd. The meal commenced with their acclaimed burnt-end rendang spring rolls, priced at €12. These were skillfully crafted from the crispy remnants of slow-cooked shortrib, wrapped in a crispy shell and seasoned with a Malaysian rendang curry. The crisp exterior contrasted well with the tender meat, highlighted by strong lemongrass and spicy flavors that effectively balanced the meat’s richness.
Next, we enjoyed marinated fresh tuna slices for €13.50, dressed in a citrus-infused Asian XO sauce, adding a punch of umami. These were served on crunchy, homemade tostados that we eagerly devoured. The Ancho chicken, costing €13, displayed a perfectly grilled exterior yet remained succulent, infused with a mild, sweet essence from the ancho chili. This was complemented with a traditional salsa of tomatoes, onions, and chives atop a generous serving of sour cream, creating a harmonious blend of flavors.
The smoked shortribs, at €20.50, were a highlight, having been smoked overnight to infuse the deep smoky flavor into the tender, rich meat. A grilled sticky pork chop, priced at €19.50, was equally impressive with its succulence and balanced sweet-savory sauce.
Our side dishes included ‘Fried potatoes’ for €6, which were more akin to perfectly crispy and fluffy traditional roast potatoes, and grilled courgettes for €6.50 that were slightly overshadowed by an overly acidic and minty salsa, though this did not prevent us from finishing the dish entirely.
Mister S’s wine collection is impressively curated, offering a range from an €8 Sicilian Catarratto-Inzolia to a €22 Roisin Curley Beaune Blanc, including a €16 Roda Rioja Reserva by the glass. Notable winemakers like Fritz Haag, Domaine Tempier, and Rafael Palacios also grace the list.
My choice, the ‘Viña Alberdi’ Reserva from renowned La Rioja Alta, delivered a complex bounty of dark red and black fruits with a smoky undertone, making it a perfect complement to barbecue flavours. It also boasted notes of liquorice and spices, which melded seamlessly with the beef.
The dessert featured a tonka bean crème caramel priced at €8. The dessert shone with its creamy, fluffy texture and a distinct aroma reminiscent of vanilla and chocolate, thanks to the tonka beans—a common ingredient in perfumes. Added textures from a cashew nut crumb and the intricate amaretto-like bitterness of the sauce beneath created a memorable balance against the sweet custard. Unlike my previous experiences with tonka beans used subtly, this dish showcased them in a boldly bitter sauce, which I found delightful.
Another dessert, the charred pineapple with coconut ice cream and dark rum syrup costing €9, was a creative twist on a piña colada. The grilled pineapple kept its juicy core, paired excellently with the smooth ice cream, and was enhanced by a rich, sweet dark rum syrup. The irresistible combination had us eagerly scraping every last drop of syrup from the bowl.
Mister S was a joy, and every plate went back scraped clean. The cooking is elemental and considered, but it also more than this, it is a showcase for human civilisation.
The verdict
Food: 9/10
Drink: 9/10
Service: 9/10
Ambiance: 8/10
Value: 9/10
the bill
Dinner for two with three starters, two mains, two desserts and a bottle of wine cost a very fair €163
Mister S, 32 Camden St Lower, Dublin 2
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