You can’t put Baby in a corner. But you can put Andrew Manning in one and watch him cook anything from his small kitchen inside The Veil’s taproom in Scott’s Addition.
After parting ways with his partners at the end of last year, Manning has shifted from fine dining to running a counter-service Japanese restaurant named Nokoribi—a place he opened with the Phelans in April 2023. Here, diners order their food at the bar, and when it’s ready, they hear a buzzer, similar to fast casual dining experiences.
Nokoribi offers an izakaya-style menu reminiscent of the vibrant grab-and-go food culture found in Tokyo’s back-alley pubs. The atmosphere is lively, popular with young professionals who frequent the neighborhood, particularly on weekends.
The highlight of Nokoribi’s menu is its yakitori, with meat and vegetable skewers grilled over charcoal. Manning and his team skillfully manage the fire while grilling, creating mouth-watering dishes like shrimp with a spicy yuzu sauce or charred trumpet mushrooms glazed with soy. The menu often features rotating kebabs, priced affordably, making it perfect for a casual setting.
While some dishes initially lacked heartiness, the menu has been adjusted to better cater to the crowd. For instance, the previously delicate katsu sandwich was replaced by a heavier Reuben-inspired option. One of the most popular items is the karaage chicken—crispy fried nuggets that are both satisfying and flavorful, available in generous portions for sharing on game days.
Other standouts include the miso-braised pork belly, which is buttery and tender, and the evolving noodle dishes that offer diners variety, from mazemen-style preparations to richer, broth-based options.
However, the restaurant does encounter inconsistencies, particularly with their rice, which has been notably soggy on some occasions, a major misstep for any Asian kitchen.
Despite these minor issues, Nokoribi shines through with its robust flavors, playful atmosphere, and Andrew Manning’s commitment to recreating authentic Japanese flavors. The chef has successfully adapted to his new role, showcasing his culinary talent in this casual yet vibrant setting.
Nokoribi
- Address: 1509 Belleville St., Unit B (inside of The Veil Brewing)
- Phone: (804) 353-5000
- Website: nokoribirva.com
- Open:
- 4 p.m. – 9 p.m. (Mon-Wed)
- 4 p.m. – 10 p.m. (Thu)
- 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. (Fri-Sat)
- 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. (Sun)
- Vibe: Counter-service, Japanese-inspired brewery restaurant
- Ideal for: Yakitori skewers, karaage-style chicken nuggets, rice and noodle bowls, beer-friendly izakaya fare
- Service: None
- Noise level: Moderately loud to very loud
- Vegetarian options: Yes
- Parking: No
- Wheelchair accessible: Yes
- Reservations: No
- Outdoor seating: Yes