London’s oldest restaurant, Rules, has a distinctive and rich aroma, a mix of meat, gravy, and time-weathered furniture polish. Established in 1798, Rules embodies history, akin to the springtime emergence of frog spawn in ponds. The restaurant brings back personal memories, particularly from a visit nearly 50 years ago with my late mother, during which I enjoyed my first oysters and discovered a world that demanded my attention.
As the new restaurant critic for this publication, starting at Rules feels appropriate. This establishment has persisted over time, warranting exploration beyond just the menu—it’s about the attention to detail. Each dining experience is curated to ensure comfort, from chilled champagne to well-ironed tablecloths. The quality of the food is important, but the overall ambiance enhances the experience. For example, the potted shrimps I ordered are perfectly spreadable, enhanced by subtle seasonings.
Despite what some may label it as a "theme park" for the culinary world, Rules holds a unique status in London. Its décor and atmosphere combine to create a space that feels both nostalgic and vibrant. An array of historical portraits and decor reflects the establishment’s long-standing legacy, highlighting its connections to notable figures like Winston Churchill and Margaret Thatcher.
The restaurant leans more towards the style of revered Parisian brasseries than British pubs, with service that balances efficiency and grace. Although it has historical roots, the restaurant adapts consistently to remain contemporary. While still offering traditional British dishes, the menu now also features items from regions such as California and Chile.
On this evening, I enjoyed a salad of sweet Dorset crab paired with rich brown crab mayonnaise, and a perfectly cooked halibut. The meals showcase the fusion of British and French culinary techniques. The menu also included a quail escabeche and a cassoulet of rabbit, reinforcing the establishment’s balance of innovation and tradition.
Not everything was flawless—such as a slightly thin bread sauce served with the game birds—but these minor flaws don’t overshadow the experience. The meal concluded with a dark chocolate torte and a steamed sponge pudding, a satisfying leap between the realms of childhood nostalgia and adult sophistication.
Dining at Rules evokes not only memories of my mother but also reflections on the journey of life itself. As I embark on this new role as a restaurant critic, I look forward to exploring new ventures, with hopes that readers will join me on this culinary exploration. In the upcoming weeks, we’ll look forward to newer establishments.
Rules Information
35 Maiden Lane, London WC2E 7LB; rules.co.uk; 020 7836 5314
Starters £10.95-£21.95
Mains £24.95-£52.50