Milton’s, an "American trattoria" located in Rice Village, offers a unique twist on Italian cuisine that defies the typical expectations of Italian restaurants in Houston. On my first visit, the ambiance captivated me with walls adorned with vintage family photos, including those of owner Benjy Levit’s parents, setting a warm and inviting tone.
The small, narrow dining space, enhanced with Irish greens and Art Deco accents, is well-designed and eschews the usual clichés associated with Italian dining. Instead of fake lemon trees and Italian-style murals, Milton’s opts for a more modern, welcoming atmosphere that complements chef Kent Domas’s inventive Italian-inspired dishes.
The menu features a mix of traditional and contemporary offerings. Standout dishes include fritto misto, a deliciously fried medley of seafood and vegetables, and unique appetizers like "pickled fried onions," which pair crispy onion rings with crème fraîche and caviar. The rustic chicken liver mousse hints at the restaurant’s previous incarnation as Eau Tour, while showcasing Domas’s culinary talents.
Seafood shines at Milton’s, with baked clams and chargrilled oysters topped with rich ingredients that nod to Gulf Coast flavors. The Sicilian tar tar blends tuna, salmon, and scallops for a refreshing seafood option. This playful spirit extends to the cocktail menu crafted by Máté Hartai, featuring cocktails like the citrusy Chaplin Swizzle.
Salads are refreshing with Milton’s parsley salad taking inspiration from the late Dolce Vita, combined with crunchy shaved Parmesan and zesty lemon. The creativity continues with pastas, including a remarkable "100-layer lasagna" that varies its fillings – a recent version showcased hearty oxtail, ensuring it is not just a gimmick but a testament to the kitchen’s dedication.
Notably, the cresta di gallo pasta, served with a bed of roasted mushrooms and creamy Parmesan, highlights Domas’s knack for presentation and flavor. Although the parmesan dishes fell short, lukewarm cutlets and overcooked spaghetti were minor blips on an otherwise impressive experience.
For mains, the beautifully prepared branzino stood out, complimented by a bright salsa verde and almonds, reinforcing the restaurant’s commitment to shareable, flavorful dishes. The attentive service and vibrant atmosphere contribute to a memorable dining experience, making Milton’s an ideal choice for both intimate dinners and festive gatherings.
With a menu full of delightful surprises and a commitment to quality, Milton’s sets a high bar for Italian dining in Houston. This style of “American trattoria” is refreshing, and I hope it inspires others in the area to elevate their culinary offerings.
More Information
- Milton’s: miltonsandlees.com
- Hours: 5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Tuesday)
- Prices: $12-$24 appetizers, $12-$16 salads, $28-$35 pastas, $25-$42 entrees.
- Reservations: Open 30 days in advance, bar seats first come, first serve.
- Recommended Dishes: Baked clams, tuna nduja, Sicilian tar tar, parsley salad, cresta di gallo, lasagna, branzino.
- Vibe: Cozy atmosphere suitable for dates or gatherings with friends, polished service.
- Noise Level: Moderate.
- Parking: Available in lot, street, or valet.