As Detroit’s culinary landscape continues to evolve, the spotlight recently turned to Standby, a cozy cocktail bar in downtown Detroit that partnered with celebrity chef Matty Matheson to refresh its menu. This collaboration has sparked both excitement and scrutiny given the potential for gentrification in the city’s restaurant scene.
Matty Matheson, known for his lively cooking videos and his role in HBO’s The Bear, introduced a menu at Standby that aims to elevate classic dishes while remaining approachable. Standby, operating since 2015, first garnered attention for its innovative cocktail program, which earned James Beard semifinalist nods. However, its food offering had lagged behind, prompting the need for a makeover.
The kitchen began collaborating earlier this year, with tastings and training sessions in both Toronto and Detroit. The emphasis was on creating a comforting and simple menu that feels right amid downtown’s often ostentatious dining options.
The newly unveiled menu features bistro-inspired dishes that cater to a variety of tastes without resorting to esoteric ingredients. Standby’s take on coconut shrimp stands out as a highlight; unlike the typical frozen versions served in many places, these are fresh and breaded on-site, accompanied by a jerk mayo that invites diner participation in guessing its complex flavors.
Other recommended dishes include grilled chicken wings, which are juicy and smoky, and a classic Caesar salad, well-dressed and abundant with cheese and bacon bits, creating a satisfying meal when shared with appetizers. Notably, the crispy lion’s mane mushroom sandwich—a creation from executive chef Kyle Skotak—provides a flavorful vegetarian alternative, showcasing the kitchen’s versatility.
While the drinks maintain their inventive flair, some entrées could use refinement. For instance, the presentation of the steak frites, served separately with fries on another plate, feels disconnected. Overall, however, Standby’s new menu is a nod to dining simplicity done well and has something for everyone.
With its late-night hours and focus on quality food and drinks, Standby successfully positions itself as a community-friendly establishment amidst a passionate and dynamic restaurant scene. In a city that values tradition as much as innovation, Standby offers a model for how new entrants can respectfully engage in Detroit’s rich culinary narrative.
Standby at a Glance
- Price: $$
- Vibe: Hip, lively, late-night, cocktail-focused
- Service: Casual, attentive
- Sound level: Moderate to boisterous
- Dress code: None
- Open: 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. (Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday); 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. (Friday, Saturday); kitchen closes at 11 p.m.
- Reservations: Available on standbydetroit.com or Resy; limited to parties of six or less on weekends
- Parking: Free two-hour parking in Z Lot on non-event days
- Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible
Standby is located at 225 Gratiot Ave., Detroit. Visit standbydetroit.com for more information.