This week, Ligaya Mishan, a chief restaurant critic for The New York Times, awarded four stars to Yamada, a small kaiseki restaurant in Manhattan’s Chinatown. This prestigious rating is rare, necessitating extensive personal experience and research from the critic, who revisited Yamada multiple times to ensure its quality.
Yamada embodies the intricate artistry of kaiseki, a traditional multi-course Japanese meal that highlights seasonal ingredients. Upon stepping inside, the ambiance offers a sense of seclusion, allowing diners to feel like the focal point of attention despite being seated at a communal counter.
The meal begins with chawanmushi, a delicate dish that fuses the warmth of soup and the richness of custard, followed by the hassun course, which showcases seasonal delicacies. On one November evening, this course featured a tiny, crisp-fried whole crab, along with a monaka—a wafer sandwich filled with chunky tuna tartare and trout roe. The A5 wagyu beef served here strikes a perfect balance of richness.
As the meal progresses, diners are treated to a donabe, a generous rice dish prepared by Chef Yamada-san, who also crafts matcha for each guest. To accompany dessert, one might find an unexpected soy sauce ice cream and beautifully molded wagashi, made from sweet white bean paste.
With Yamada joining the ranks of previously existing four-star establishments, it brings the total to five elite restaurants in New York City.